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Tuesday, December 30, 2014

How To Grow Potatoes In 4 Square Feet



I like this well enough to give it a try


How to Grow 100 Pounds Of Potatoes In 4 Square Feet

One of the great things about growing potatoes is they are fairly low maintenance and they can be grown in pots or massively in the ground.
Some home gardeners grow their potatoes above ground using chicken wire and some straw to hold in the dirt. Others use a stack of old tires.

According to an article from the Seattle Times all you need is 4 square feet to grow 100 pounds of potatoes. That’s a lot of french fries!
On many occasions, we've been tempted to grow our own potatoes. They're fairly low maintenance, can be grown in a pot or in the ground, last a fairly long time if stored properly, and can be very nutritious (high in potassium and vitamin C).

Here's more incentive: according to this article, you can grow 100 pounds of potatoes in 4 sq. feet. 
According to this article from the Seattle Times, potatoes planted inside a box with this method can grow up to 100 pounds of potatoes in just 4 square feet.
All that is required:

Lumber
Seed potatoes
Soil
Careful attention to watering

The Times' guide for building a potato growing box yields up to a 100 lbs. of potatoes in a mere 4 square feet is shown below:

Plant as early as April or as late as August 1, with an approximated 3 month till harvest turnaround time. Plant anytime here in Mindanao.

Here are some pointers from the article

Cut apart larger seed potatoes, making sure there are at least two eyes in each piece you plant.
Dust the cut pieces with fir dust, which seals the open ends from bacteria.
Fertilize with 10-20-20 fertilizer at planting and a couple of times during the season.
Water so that the plants are kept at an even level of moisture.
Don't plant in the same area in consecutive years or use the same soil to fill your potato box, as potatoes can attract various diseases.

"To save space, the author recommends building a box and planting inside it, adding sides to the box as the plant grows and filling the new space with mulch or soil. When the plant blossoms, it starts setting potatoes in this added soil. Soon after that, you can start removing the bottom boards from your box and "robbing" the plant, reaching in carefully and pulling out new potatoes." sounds cleaver to me.

And if you're unsure of the nutrition content of potatoes, there is  a handy info, compliments of the US Potato Board: http://www.potatoesusa-philippines.com/uspb/index.php

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

The black "Bean Aphid"





The black bean aphid (Aphis fabae) is a tiny black insect with a broad, soft body, a member of the order Hemiptera. Other common names include blackfly, bean aphid and beet leaf aphid. In the warmer climates like ythe Philippines it is found in large numbers on the undersides of leaves and on the growing tips of host plants, including various agricultural crops and many wild and ornamental plants. 
Both winged and wingless forms exist and  they are all females. They suck sap from stems and leaves and cause distortion of the shoots, stunted plants, reduced yield and spoiled crops. 

This aphid also acts as a vector for viruses that cause plant disease and the honeydew it secretes may encourage the growth of sooty mold.

It breeds profusely by live birth but its numbers are kept in check, especially in the later part of the summer, by various predatory and parasitic insects. Ants feed on the honeydew it produces and take active steps to remove the aphid's enemies. It is a widely distributed pest of agricultural crops and can be controlled by chemical or biological means. Winged forms move to different host plants where both males and females are produced. This can contaminate your entire rapidly..

Monday, November 24, 2014

Question..Ron Vandergrift..Jalapeno Peppers

 
 
 
 
Ron's Question:
Ok, let's start with both an admission and a clarification all rolled into one.
I AM NOT inclined to grow anything. All past attempts have resulted in the deaths of everything that I have tried to grow.
So it is at this point that I ask for help of anyone/everyone.
I am from Texas and as such, I enjoy our Jalapeno peppers.
I had some of my wife's relatives that live in Louisiana come to visit family, and I had them bring me some fresh seeds (2 varieties).
One is called "Jalapeno Early" and the other is called "Jalapeno Chili"
I took half of the seeds from each packet and planted them according to the directions on the package (1/4"deep). Sprout time was 45 days.
It has now been about 6 months and I have nothing, except dead seeds.
They never even tried to sprout.
I have no idea if I gave them too much or not enough water.
I have no idea if I gave them too much or not enough sun.
Basically....I just have no idea.
I now have the remaining half of each packet of seeds and I don't want to kill them also.
ANY ideas will be greatly appreciated.


Tagum Gardening...Some chili will take between 17 and 21 days to germinate but none will take 6 months..Dead seeds happen.. Harvesting seeds properly is an important first step.
Harvest mature, fully-ripe peppers for seed. (Most  peppers turn red when fully mature.) If the seeds are not mature they will likely not germinate..
Soil..
 Jalapeno peppers prefer well-drained soil that is alkaline. A ph level between 4.5 to 7.0 is essential for vigorously growing Jalapenos. Jalapenos can do well in a range of soil conditions provided that it receives a generous amount of sunlight and water. However, pepper plants DO NOT LIKE TO BE FLOODED. if This happens they may not recover... 
Germinate your seeds in Worm Cast compost if you can get it. It promotes germination and is great for growing your Jalapeno Chili. Worm Cast compost is alkaline in nature.Make sure that your soil remains damp..not saturated, and  gets plenty of warm morning sun..Here the sun is so hot at mid day that it can actually cook your seeds in the pot..So although your seeds need the energy from the sun to germinate be careful not to let them cook..
.Use a generous amount worm cast compost combined with a rich loam that includes sand. If your soil is like mine in Tagum you may have a high clay content. this is not good for peppers. If this is your soil do a soil mix of worm cast compost, a rich potting soil and sand.. You may also want to put some manure in the bottom of the hole when you plant..Banana compost contains high potassium content witch is necessary for root development. Use this also when you make your soil mix. a strong root will yield a strong plant and bear more fruit..
Once your plants are growing you will likely have problems with Aphids and White Flies that will kill your healthy plants if left unchecked..You must check under the leaves every few days for these and use a spray bottle with water to dislodge them from the leaf. The white Flies with eat your flowers which means that you will have no fruit. You have to use either an organic pesticide or a chemical pesticide to keep these in check to preserve all of your hard work. If one thing does not work for you you HAVE to find something that will work or you will definitely loose your plants. They suck the juices from the leaves and stem and your plants will wither and die.
Good luck ron..let us know how you are doing...Carl 

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Basil propagation experiment


This slip of Basil is about 3 weeks old. It is about 10 inches tall now. I planted this as a fresh cutting  about 4 inches high. If you measure down with your eye from the top about 4 inches this is what I initially planted. At the same time I put a slip from the same plant and about the same size in water to root. This cutting began to root but the leaves died before the root system was the customary the right size to plant. I planted the this cutting in very rich soil and watered it once a day to keep it fairly moist..It grew without hesitation and never showed any signs of wilt.
Today I cut the new plant about mid way just before the new growth leaves.
Red line shows the cutting point.

Now we will cross our fingers and hope for the best for this little guy.


Submitted by Carl B.

Saturday, November 15, 2014

How to Identify Whiteflies



Whiteflies ingest plant juices and in turn produce a sticky substance known as honeydew. Honeydew left on its own can cause fungal diseases to form on leaves. Plants will become extremely weak and may be unable to carry out photosynthesis. Leaves may dry out and turn yellow, and growth will be stunted. Check undersides of leaves around the veins for flies, even if they aren’t visible, feel leaf surfaces for honeydew.
Eggs are also laid on the undersides of leaves. Adult females can produce up to 400 eggs, which can hatch anytime between one week and a month. They are usually laid in a circular pattern.

How to get rid of Whiteflies
Spray with insecticidal soap. Follow up twice or three times.
Ladybugs and spiders may help control whitefly population.
Some garden and hardware stores sell whitefly traps, which may be useful, although not as successful as insecticidal soap.

Try this homemade mixture from the Almanac to control and deter whiteflies: In a 32-ounce spray bottle mix 2 parts rubbing alcohol, 5 parts water, and 1 tablespoon liquid soap. Spray the mixture on the foliage of garden plants that are susceptible to these pests.

Friday, November 14, 2014

Organic Strategies for Managing Pests



1. Learn to tolerate some damage: Most healthy Chile plants can tolerate some damage without suffering serious long-term problems or yield reduction. Munched leaves/ damage pods can easily be removed to maintain the attractive appearance of your plant.

2. Introduce the 'Good guys': Aphids feeding in the spring can alarm many Chile growers. Introducing natural predators such as Ladybirds, Parasitic wasps and Lacewings will help clean up most local infestations in a month or so. 

3. Hand pick/Hunt down: Hunting down snails and slugs and 'disposing of them' can be a highly satisfying exercise particularly if the little blighters have already struck your prized plants. Night time 'slug hunts' during wet weather can be particularly productive.

4. The Water Hose: A strong water hose will temporarily dislodge flies, aphids and other pests from mature plants. However be careful not to saturate or damage your plants and avoid this using method on young seedlings.

5. Remove diseased plants or plant parts: Simply removing and disposing of badly damaged plants can help reduce the problem and prevent is spreading to adjacent plants.

6. Crop Rotation: This is particularly important strategy for tackling soil borne pathogens such as Verticillium Wilt and root rot.

7. Grow pest resistant & pest tolerant plants: Many hybridised varieties, particularly some of the newer sweet pepper varieties have been developed to give specific resistance to diseases such as Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) and Bacterial Leaf Spot.

8. Innoculate: When growing in pots it is likely that sterilized soil has been used. Sterile soil is ripe for colinisation by many forms of bacteria, fungi, & insects. It is quite likely that the first colinization will not be beneficial. However, just as you can buy yogurts containing beneficial bacteria from the supermarket, you can also buy beneficial bacteria for your soil (though it is a little bit more difficult to get hold of). Beneficial Mycorhizzal fungi is also available, and is starting to become popular in many on-line shops. It may also be useful, depending upon the scope of your growing conditions, to introduce beneficial soil dwelling predatory insects. Introducing your own symbiotic bacteria, fungi, and insects limits the likelihood of colonisation by parasitic forms. In addition to aiding growth of the chile plant, & providing tolerance to environmental stresses, many forms of bacteria and Mycorhizzal fungi are also thought to innoculate the chile plant from diseases and viruses. In addition, they are helpful at reducing the conditions that make these diseases and viruses possible. 

The Harvest



In our small garden here in Tagum City we have managed to raise a variety of vegetables to include TOMATOES..Yes Yes Yes Tomatoes!!!
In the past we have not had much luck with tomatoes. For some reason they would get to maturity , begin to flower and then wither and die. Sometimes the tomato plants would look fine when I went to bed and be dead in the morning. It was a frustrating experience which made this growing season's harvest all the more sweet.

 The Tomatoes that we planted this time are Diamante Max F1. we have at this point hundreds on 8 plants. On one of the smaller isolated plants I counted 65 on just on that plant alone. We have allowed them to ripen until dead ripe before harvesting.
Although they cannot compare with a Big Boy or a Beef Steak tomatoes I have no complaints about the Diamante Max F1 either.. They are smaller but allowed to ripen on the vine they are sweet and juicy..

In addition we have 5 varieties of peppers. My favorite peppers are heart peppers and Sword Chili..Although the sweet peppers here have the reputation for having in-eatable skin we have managed to find some with tender skin and through seed management have realized a good pepper with eatable skin..





Our egg Plants are doing just fine and string beans are doing well
but I think beans will just grow anywhere.








You will see 2 wild Chili plants that we are cultivating in the large brown pots in the front of the beds. These beds are 4 feet wide and 15 feet long. the seemed more than adequate when I built them but now we wish that we had double the space.





One of my wife's prize projects are her Ginger and Turmeric.. they are about 9 months old now and we harvested some root for the first time. we were both amazed with the richness of the color and the taste. We try to use Turmeric everyday.


Here are some misc pics from our garden and our harvest to date..Hope you all enjoyed and hope also that you will share some of your pictures and gardening stories.








Submitted by Gilman Jones


Friday, November 7, 2014

Controlling Aphids in Your Precious Garden..




Aphids cluster around new growth, causing stunted and warped new growth.  
What Are They?

Aphids are tiny sucking insects from family Aphididae. Adult aphids are pear-shaped, measuring less than 1/8" in length. The most common aphids on houseplants are the light green ones (pear aphids), but aphids can also be found colored pink, white, grey and black. Additionally, winged aphids can appear when colonies are established and fly to infect new plants. Juvenile aphids (nymphs) look like smaller versions of the adults.

Aphid infestations tend to develop quickly, and the insects are highly mobile: they rapidly travel from one plant to another. In the outdoor garden, aphid colonies are often tended by ants, which feed on aphid honeydew. Researchers have observed ants transporting aphids to new plants and hypothesized that the ants are "farming" aphids. Indoors, aphids spread through flying or crawling.


Aphids cause damage by sucking sap from new growth. They tend to cluster at the growth end of plants and attach to soft, green stems. As a result, the new foliage may look crinkled or stunted, and the aphids are usually plainly visible around the stem. If the infestation is bad enough, the plant will begin to drop leaves. Finally, like mealy bugs, aphids secrete honeydew that encourages the growth of sooty mold and fungus.

Outside, aphid eggs survive the winter by attaching to woody growth. In the spring, eggs hatch into females. The females give birth to nymphs without mating, and the nymphs rapidly mature into adults (about 10 days). Males are born in the fall and begin to mate with the females to produce eggs in preparation for the long winter. Indoors, however, there is no winter to slow their reproduction, and females can continue to produce nymphs all year without pause. Thus, the aphid population can quickly get out of control.

How to Get Rid of Aphids

Like most pests, the best control for aphids is defensive. Healthy, vigorous plants are less susceptible to infestation than weak, underpotted, and stressed plants. As a general rule, make sure your plants are healthy, and you're less likely to attract these annoying critters in the first place.

If you see aphids on your indoor plants, there are several control options:
Wash them away. Use a strong stream of water to blast aphids from your plants. You can also knock them off with your fingers or a cotton swab. This is best for light infestations.

Insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps are available on the market (such as Safer's Insecticidal Soap), or you can make your own by using a dish detergent such as Ivory Liquid. Try to find a product free of perfumes and additives that might harm plants. Mix the soap in a weak concentration with water (starting a 1 teaspoon per gallon and increasing as necessary). Spray on plants.

Neem oil. Neem oil is derived from the neem tree. Use according to label instructions. In addition to its insecticidal properties, neem is also a fungicide and has systemic benefits (meaning the plant absorbs it so it can control insects it doesn't directly contact). According to the Environmental Protection Association, neem is safe for use on vegetables and food plants as well as ornamentals.


Kitchen insect spray. This all-purpose insect spray was developed by the editors of Organic Gardening magazine and came to me by way of Rodale's Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control. 
To make a batch, combine 1 garlic bulb, 1 small onion, and 1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper in a food processor or blender and process into a paste. Mix into 1 quart of water and steep for 1 hour. Strain through a cheesecloth and add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap. Mix well. The mixture can be stored for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.
submitted by C. Bruce

Tuesday, October 28, 2014

Propagating Basil From Stems in Water~TEgardening



Once you've taken in the spicy-sweet scent and flavor of fresh basil, you won't want to do without it in your garden or kitchen. While basil plants can go to seed quite quickly if you don't vigilantly remove their flower stalks, you don't have to wait to produce a new crop from seed to get more of the annual herb. You can root cuttings in water to get a new supply of the culinary favorite to grow in your garden or on the windowsill in a week or two. The resulting plants are clones of your successful garden basil.
Selecting Basil Cuttings
Basil cuttings may be taken at any time during the season, though those taken in spring propagate most reliably, according to "The Herb Companion." It only stands to reason that the healthiest cuttings produce the strongest new plants, so search your basil patch for a disease- and insect-free plant with good color and no flower stalk. Plants that are flowering can be used if that is all that is available, but select a stem with no flowers. Cut a 3- to 4-inch piece from the end of the stem with a sharp knife that has been sterilized with rubbing alcohol or diluted household bleach. Cut just below a node, where leaves attach to the stem. Cuttings from multiple plants give you the best chance of success.
Rooting Basil Cuttings
Strip the leaves away from the bottom third of the cuttings. Fill a sterilized jar, glass, disposable cup or other clean, watertight receptacle with water. Place as many cuttings as can fit without overcrowding into the jar, letting the upper leaves of the cuttings rest on the rim of the jar to support the plants. The water should cover only the bottom two-thirds of the cuttings, pour out any excess water. Put the jar in bright, indirect light and change the water every day to keep bacteria from developing, or your cuttings may rot instead of growing roots. Your cuttings should develop roots in seven to 10 days.
Planting Basil Cuttings
When roots are clearly visible, it's time to remove the cuttings from the water and pot them up individually in 3- to 4-inch pots filled with sterile potting mix. Roots can be stringy and tangled it you let them remain in the water too long, so detach the cuttings from each other carefully. Removing the cuttings when roots are from 1/4 to 1/2 inch long avoids this problem. Care for the new plants in a protected area in indirect light for a few weeks while they establish roots before planting them outdoors. If you plan to keep a basil plant on your windowsill, plant several cuttings in the pot you're using as the plant's permanent home.
Basil Plant Care

When your new basil is ready to plant outdoors, select a site in the sunniest part of your garden. Soil should have a pH level from 6.0 to 6.5. Keep the plants well watered, particularly after planting, and only fertilize in poor soil or if the foliage is light green. Basil that grows too quickly, usually after being fertilized, is not as flavorful. Pinch the tips of the stems to encourage bushier growth and remove flower buds. You can begin harvesting anytime, so long as you never remove more than a third of the plant's foliage.

Interesting Facts About Mango

  
   
            


Mangoes... have been cultivated in the Indian subcontinent for thousands of years and reached East Asia between the 5th and 4th centuries BC. By the 10th century AD, cultivation had begun in East Africa. The 14th century Moroccan traveler, Ibn BaMangga is the Tagalog word for 'mango.
The most common variety of mango in the Philippines is what Americans refer to as champagne mango. It's been called Manila mango, Ataulfo mango (named after its Mexican grower) and Honey mango.  Filipinos call it manggang kalabaw (carabao mango) while the Philippine government refers to it as 'Manila Super Mango' and is reputedly in the Guinness Book of World Records as the sweetest in the world.

Other popular mango varieties in the Philippines are Pico (Piko), Katchamita (Indian) and Pahutan (Mangifera altissima).

The Manila mango is more slender than the large mango varieties such as the Tommy Atkins or Kent with which Americans are familiar. The Filipino mangga has yellow-orange skin which wrinkles once it is very ripe. The flesh has an almost buttery texture and is very, very sweet.

In other countries, a mango is peeled with a knife akin to the way you'd peel an apple. This is possible because the mango variety they are peeling has very firm, not so juicy flesh. Peeling a Filipino mango this way is almost impossible because the flesh is too soft.


Filipinos slice up a ripe Manila mango lengthwise, producing three flat slices, the middle slice containing the large seed. With the outer slices, you either scoop out the flesh with a spoon or make cubes using the "hedgehog" method -- make a crisscross grid with a knife, turn the flesh out with your hands and then scrape off the chunks.
                         
 Filipinos also love eating manggang hilaw (green, unripe mangoes) raw either plainly with rock salt or with the fish paste bagoong. Mango juice is popular and is even sold in cans and Doypack stand-up pouches by the Zest-O company. It's a favorite flavor of locally made ice cream. Dried mangoes are eaten by the locals and are a top export product.
Fresh Philippine mangoes meant for export are sent within 12 hours after harvesting to a factory to receive Vapor Heat Treatment. They stay in the VHT chamber for about five hours from pre-heating to cooling. No chemicals are sprayed on them; they are merely steamed. This process is to satisfy the phytosanitary standards set by Japan to which the mangoes are exported.

Trivia: Australia only allows fresh mangoes coming from Guimaras Island, which is famous for its Manggahan Festival. Curiously, statistics show that the top producers of mangoes are the provinces of Pangasinan (30%), Isabela (15%), Negros Occidental, Zamboanga del Norte, and Nueva Vizcaya.

In the Philippines, mango growers are classified as backyard growers, commercial growers or corporate farms. Half of the mango supply comes from backyard growers, defined as those who own five to 20 fruit-bearing trees.


Trivia: The mango fruit belongs to the genus Mangifera and the family Anacardiaceae -- it is closely related to the cashew!

Saturday, October 4, 2014

My Gardening Journal..Things I have learned..

Aida's little slice of Heaven


This is the Gardening post that I promised today. I spent a fair amount of time working in the garden today and inspected all of the plants and made some comparisons..
A little back ground..Our beds are a little over 1 year old and this is our forth growing cycle..

The soil that was delivered to fill the beds was heavy in clay and the nutrient value seemed very low. The first growing cycle was not good. My tomatoes died one by one; they were Big Boys from the states..Red radishes grew but not the roots. They did not produce much at all..I planted cucumbers from the states without much success..Just a few deformed pieces and also some green peppers from the states which were not good..

The short story on my first planting was a very discouraging one and I was desperately trying to figure out why , even though I had always had a nice garden in the states, nothing would grow for me.
After this disaster was over we burned all the old plants and purchased potting soil from a couple of the garden centers in Tagum. Some of the so called potting soils looked very bad..Some of the bags had pasty black globs of something in it but it was all I had so I began to mix it into the beds along with a few boxes of sea gull poop and some 10-10-10 that I broadcast and worked into the soil. I also mixed in a few bags of sand..I was trying to create a sandy loam of sorts..

This next planting I planted a local squash ( kalabasa)...We got a good crop..We got 10 nice ones from 4 plants...and we planted rope beans..They did good as well...I bought tomato seeds from the states for growing in high temperatures..they grew well until the were ready to blossom and one by one they wilted and died.. We planted Oregano which did pretty well..cucumbers, from the states were still were not producing and bell peppers continued to not produce much..the fruit was small and deformed..

Frustrations Frustrations...
Fast forwarding to present I will outline what we did with the garden beds with some good advise from the Director of the Vermi-technology project at E-Park in Tagum City.,

1- We got several bags of cow manure..I spread this over the bed and let it dry for 2 weeks. then spend a couple more weeks working it into the soil until the texture was nice and fine...I found that the manure actually changed the structure of the soil and it appeared much more healthy even to the eye..

Bags of Worm Cast ready to use
2- I got a few bags of Worm cast compost...I also spread this out and worked it into the soil..

3. We grew all of our plants from seed..Our tomatoes are Diamante Max F1..Egg plant are indigenous to this area..We have 5 varieties of peppers. We are cultivating the wild chili...we grew sword pepper, heart pepper (chili), Habanero  pepper..and a variety of sweet peppers that are grown here with a tender skin that are eatable..We have ginger and turmeric that are about 7 months old now..( we will wait until 1 year to harvest it)..

4- We germinated all the seeds directly in the worm compost..
We had more plants than we could use and gave quite a few away to friends...Worm compost is great for germination of seeds but when you use it to actually plant you should mix it with your soil because it is alkaline ...
Worm Compost

5- Planting...We planted about a month after spreading the manure etc and letting the beds rest for a time..When we planted the tomatoes and peppers we dug a 10 to 12 inch deep hole. We put cow manure in the bottom with water and a bit of soil..Then we added the worm compost and soil mix and lastly mixed in a scoopful of banana compost.The banana compost feeds the roots and fosters blossoming of your plant..Don't use uncomposted or raw banana skin in your garden...Anything rotting with generate heat and hurt your plants..Even manure needs to be dried and allowed to rot into the soil a bit..Don't use fresh because it will also burn your plants..

We water moderately each day, usually once a day..Sometime giving a small drink if the days were excessively hot, during the day if I see that the plants are distressed..
tomatoes and bamboo , double tired tomato cage

The results has been Great! ..All the plants are doing beautifully..The tomatoes have tons of blossoms and we have many small tomatoes that are visible..I designed a double tiered tomato cage and built it with split bamboo and tieback... it provides for support for 6 tomato plants at once..Things like this are great if you have limited space like I do..Hope you enjoy the pictures..Please feel free to comment in our Gardeners Forum..Carl






Tomatoes and Peppers


In the rear bed you can see the Turmeric and ginger growing in the center. On the edge you can see egg plant and string beans that are coming nicely





A sweet pepper with eatable skin



Friday, September 26, 2014

Is Organic Farming Sustainable ?




The unsustainability of organic farming

"Sustainable" has become one of the buzzwords of the twenty-first century. Increasing numbers of universities offer courses or even programs in "sustainability," and many large companies boast substantial departments devoted to the subject. In April, many of the iconic multinational companies in the agriculture/food sector were represented at a three-day "Sustainable Product Expo.

As with many vague, feel-good concepts, "sustainability" contains more than a little sophistry. For example, sustainability in agriculture is often linked to organic farming, whose advocates tout it as a "sustainable" way to feed the planet's rapidly expanding population. But what does "sustainable" really mean, and how does it relate to organic methods of food production?

The organic movement's claims about the sustainability of its methods are dubious. For example, a recent study found that the potential for groundwater contamination can be dramatically reduced if fertilizers are distributed through the irrigation system according to plant demand during the growing season; organic farming, however, depends on compost, the release of which is not matched to plant demand. Moreover, though composting receives good press as a "green" practice, it generates a significant amount of greenhouse gases (and is often a source of pathogenic bacteria in crops).

The study also found that "intensive organic agriculture relying on solid organic matter, such as composted manure that is mixed in to the soil prior to planting, resulted in significant down-leaching of nitrate" into groundwater. Increasing the nitrate levels in groundwater is hardly a hallmark of sustainability, especially with many of the world's most fertile farming regions in the throes of drought.

A fundamental reason that organic food production is far less "sustainable" than many forms of conventional farming is that organic farms, though possibly well adapted for certain local environments on a small scale, produce far less food per unit of land and water. The low yields of organic agriculture – typically 20-50% below conventional agriculture – impose various stresses on farmland, especially on water consumption.

A British meta-analysis published in 2012 identified some of the stresses that were higher in organic agriculture. For example, it found that "ammonia emissions, nitrogen leaching, and nitrous oxide emissions per product unit were higher from organic systems," as were "land use, eutrophication potential, and acidification potential per product unit."

Organic food just became the ultimate battleground

Lower crop yields in organic farming are largely inevitable, owing to the arbitrary rejection of various advanced methods and technologies. Organic practices afford limited pesticide options, create difficulties in meeting peak fertilizer demand, and rule out access to genetically engineered varieties. If organic production were scaled up significantly, the lower yields would lead to greater pressure to convert land to agricultural use and produce more animals for manure, to say nothing of the tighter squeeze on water supplies – all of which are challenges to sustainability.

Another limitation of organic production is that it works against the best approach to enhancing soil quality – namely, the minimization of soil disturbance (such as that caused by plowing or tilling), combined with the use of cover crops. Such farming systems have many environmental advantages, particularly with respect to limiting erosion and the runoff of fertilizers and pesticides. Organic growers do frequently plant cover crops, but in the absence of effective herbicides, they often rely on tillage (or even labor-intensive hand weeding) for weed control.

Organic problems for Whole Foods

At the same time, organic producers do use insecticides and fungicides to protect their crops, despite the green myth that they do not. More than 20 chemicals (mostly containing copper and sulfur) are commonly used in growing and processing organic crops – all acceptable under US rules for certifying organic products.

Perhaps the most illogical and least sustainable aspect of organic farming in the long term is the exclusion of "genetically engineered" (also known as "genetically modified," or GM) plants – but only those that were modified with the most precise techniques and predictable results. Except for wild berries and wild mushrooms, virtually all the fruits, vegetables, and grains in European and North American diets have been genetically improved by one technique or another – often as a result of seeds being irradiated or undergoing hybridizations that move genes from one species or genus to another in ways that do not occur in nature.

The exclusion from organic agriculture of organisms simply because they were crafted with modern, superior techniques makes no sense. It not only denies farmers improved seeds, but also denies consumers of organic goods access to nutritionally improved foods, such as oils with enhanced levels of omega-3 fatty acids.
In recent decades, conventional agriculture has become more environmentally friendly and sustainable than ever before. But that reflects science-based research and old-fashioned technological ingenuity on the part of farmers, plant breeders, and agribusiness companies, not irrational opposition to modern insecticides, herbicides, genetic engineering, and "industrial agriculture."

Commentary by :

Henry I. Miller and Richard Cornett. Miller is a physician and molecular biologist, and a fellow in scientific philosophy and public policy at Stanford University's Hoover Institution. He was the founding director of the Office of Biotechnology in the US FDA and is the author of "The Frankenfood Myth." Richard Cornett is Communications Director for the Western Plant Health Association, a California-based nonprofit agricultural trade group.

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Updated pics on our garden here in Tagum...So Far..so Good...



I am very pleased this planting with the way everything looks..I am still crossing my fingers though! I have amended my soil quite a lot because it was not very good to begin with..The tomato cage that you see is made out of split bamboo and tieback..