Bust Bees

Bust Bees

Search This Blog

Friday, September 26, 2014

Is Organic Farming Sustainable ?




The unsustainability of organic farming

"Sustainable" has become one of the buzzwords of the twenty-first century. Increasing numbers of universities offer courses or even programs in "sustainability," and many large companies boast substantial departments devoted to the subject. In April, many of the iconic multinational companies in the agriculture/food sector were represented at a three-day "Sustainable Product Expo.

As with many vague, feel-good concepts, "sustainability" contains more than a little sophistry. For example, sustainability in agriculture is often linked to organic farming, whose advocates tout it as a "sustainable" way to feed the planet's rapidly expanding population. But what does "sustainable" really mean, and how does it relate to organic methods of food production?

The organic movement's claims about the sustainability of its methods are dubious. For example, a recent study found that the potential for groundwater contamination can be dramatically reduced if fertilizers are distributed through the irrigation system according to plant demand during the growing season; organic farming, however, depends on compost, the release of which is not matched to plant demand. Moreover, though composting receives good press as a "green" practice, it generates a significant amount of greenhouse gases (and is often a source of pathogenic bacteria in crops).

The study also found that "intensive organic agriculture relying on solid organic matter, such as composted manure that is mixed in to the soil prior to planting, resulted in significant down-leaching of nitrate" into groundwater. Increasing the nitrate levels in groundwater is hardly a hallmark of sustainability, especially with many of the world's most fertile farming regions in the throes of drought.

A fundamental reason that organic food production is far less "sustainable" than many forms of conventional farming is that organic farms, though possibly well adapted for certain local environments on a small scale, produce far less food per unit of land and water. The low yields of organic agriculture – typically 20-50% below conventional agriculture – impose various stresses on farmland, especially on water consumption.

A British meta-analysis published in 2012 identified some of the stresses that were higher in organic agriculture. For example, it found that "ammonia emissions, nitrogen leaching, and nitrous oxide emissions per product unit were higher from organic systems," as were "land use, eutrophication potential, and acidification potential per product unit."

Organic food just became the ultimate battleground

Lower crop yields in organic farming are largely inevitable, owing to the arbitrary rejection of various advanced methods and technologies. Organic practices afford limited pesticide options, create difficulties in meeting peak fertilizer demand, and rule out access to genetically engineered varieties. If organic production were scaled up significantly, the lower yields would lead to greater pressure to convert land to agricultural use and produce more animals for manure, to say nothing of the tighter squeeze on water supplies – all of which are challenges to sustainability.

Another limitation of organic production is that it works against the best approach to enhancing soil quality – namely, the minimization of soil disturbance (such as that caused by plowing or tilling), combined with the use of cover crops. Such farming systems have many environmental advantages, particularly with respect to limiting erosion and the runoff of fertilizers and pesticides. Organic growers do frequently plant cover crops, but in the absence of effective herbicides, they often rely on tillage (or even labor-intensive hand weeding) for weed control.

Organic problems for Whole Foods

At the same time, organic producers do use insecticides and fungicides to protect their crops, despite the green myth that they do not. More than 20 chemicals (mostly containing copper and sulfur) are commonly used in growing and processing organic crops – all acceptable under US rules for certifying organic products.

Perhaps the most illogical and least sustainable aspect of organic farming in the long term is the exclusion of "genetically engineered" (also known as "genetically modified," or GM) plants – but only those that were modified with the most precise techniques and predictable results. Except for wild berries and wild mushrooms, virtually all the fruits, vegetables, and grains in European and North American diets have been genetically improved by one technique or another – often as a result of seeds being irradiated or undergoing hybridizations that move genes from one species or genus to another in ways that do not occur in nature.

The exclusion from organic agriculture of organisms simply because they were crafted with modern, superior techniques makes no sense. It not only denies farmers improved seeds, but also denies consumers of organic goods access to nutritionally improved foods, such as oils with enhanced levels of omega-3 fatty acids.
In recent decades, conventional agriculture has become more environmentally friendly and sustainable than ever before. But that reflects science-based research and old-fashioned technological ingenuity on the part of farmers, plant breeders, and agribusiness companies, not irrational opposition to modern insecticides, herbicides, genetic engineering, and "industrial agriculture."

Commentary by :

Henry I. Miller and Richard Cornett. Miller is a physician and molecular biologist, and a fellow in scientific philosophy and public policy at Stanford University's Hoover Institution. He was the founding director of the Office of Biotechnology in the US FDA and is the author of "The Frankenfood Myth." Richard Cornett is Communications Director for the Western Plant Health Association, a California-based nonprofit agricultural trade group.

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Updated pics on our garden here in Tagum...So Far..so Good...



I am very pleased this planting with the way everything looks..I am still crossing my fingers though! I have amended my soil quite a lot because it was not very good to begin with..The tomato cage that you see is made out of split bamboo and tieback..














Sunday, September 21, 2014

What To Do For Leggy Plant Growth

Plants that become leggy or floppy tend to fall over, produce less flowers or fruit and produce and create an untidy spindly appearance. There are a couple of reasons why plants are tall and leggy. Leggy plant growth may be the result of too much nitrogen or even low light situations. It is also just simply common to some species. Learn how to keep plants from getting leggy and have bushier, more bountiful yield.

Why Do Mature Plants Become Spindly?

Plant growth is unpredictable in most cases. Legginess in plants is often the result of perfect growing conditions which allows them to add on too much greenery before the plant has adequate dimension and strength in stems and roots. The result is a floppy, leggy plant growth. You can prevent this to some extent with a little manual grooming and the proper fertilizing program.
Other reasons for leggy plant growth include improper lighting. I have always been protective of my plants and here in the Philippines and have shaded with black net or tarp. However, in low light situations, the plants are stretching for sunlight to produce important plant sugars. This results in overly tall, spindly plants. Also, plants that receive high nitrogen fertilizers early will get a jump on growth. The excess nitrogen can cause a spike in greenery development that exceeds the plant’s ability to become girthy. Plants are tall and leggy and often produce poorly.

How to Keep Plants from Getting Leggy 

Make sure you situate plants where they get adequate light to keep them from stretching towards the sunshine. Pinch back the tip growth of plants , like petunias, tomatoes or peppers, to force bushiness and more stems which means more fruit or more flowers.
 Indoor houseplants that are in dimmer lighting can be forced to bush with this treatment and herbs respond very favorably to pinching . You can prevent legginess in plants by early season pruning. It enhances thicker growth and sturdier branches.

Care and Its Effect on Leggy Plants 

Cultural care is a crucial to keeping plants compact and strong. Provide proper levels of moisture and drainage, lighting and nutrition. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers, except on turf grass. Most plants need balanced macro-nutrients such as an 8-8-8 or our common 10-10-10. Flowering plants need plant food with a higher middle number, which indicates phosphorus and promotes flowers and fruit.
The first number is nitrogen and promotes leaf growth and green cell formation.

The Natural, Organic  Way

Good natural compost spells the best success in terms of delivering natural, balanced, nutrition to your plants. A banana compost and vermin compost or worm compost, mixed with your soil provides all most plants will need to build healthy roots, healthy stalks and promote high yield. The banana compost provides potassium, which enhances root growth and overall plant yield. My personal preference is the natural way but if the chemical fertilizers work for you go easy on the urea or nitrogen content after you plants has had their start.. Happy Gardening

Friday, September 19, 2014

Raising the Best Quality Basil ~ If you love Basil these tips will put you on the right track..



How To Best Grow Basil Plants


Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is often referred to as the king of herbs. Basil plants are certainly one of the most popular herbs grown in the home garden. Growing basil outdoors or in a container is very easy to do if you follow these simple steps for how to grow basil.
Tips for Growing Basil

Choose a location with great drainage. Whether you are growing basil outdoors in the ground or in a container, the drainage needs to be excellent.

Choose a location with good sun. Another important thing for basil plant care is to choose a spot where the basil plants will get plenty of good sunlight.

Choose growing basil seeds or plants. Will you start by growing basil seeds or basil plants? Either option is very easy to do when growing basil outdoors.

If you choose growing basil seeds, scatter the seeds over the location that you have chosen and lightly cover with dirt. Water thoroughly. Thin to 6 inches apart once the seedling come up.

If you choose growing basil plants, dig a small hole, tease out the root ball some and plant the basil plant in the ground. Water thoroughly.

Harvest often. The trick to how to grow basil that is large and abundant is to harvest often. The more you harvest basil, the more the plant will grow. When harvesting, pinch off the stem right above where a pair of leaves are growing. After you harvest, two more stems will start to grow, which means twice the leaves next time you harvest!

Remove flowers. Once a basil plant flowers, the leaves start to lose their good flavor. If you remove any flowers, the leaves will get their good flavor back in just a day or so.

As you can see, proper basil plant care is easy. Knowing how to grow basil will provide you with large amounts of this tasty herb.

Article contributed by:  By Heather Rhoades for Tagum Expat Gardening Club

A Few Ideas For Using Up Your Excess Fruits and Veggies

Hi gardeners!
After a glorious growing cycle, it’s time to turn our attention back to business in the garden and get harvesting all those fantastic fruit and veg that we can grow here in Mindanao. 
From salad leaves to Zucchini and runner beans there are some items that seem to grow well almost anywhere and you certainly don’t need an allotment to join in the fun. Even a window box , simple raised bed or an old rubber tire filled with soil, will do ..so we do hope you've been enjoying a successful year of growing so far.
In fact, sometimes our harvest can be so successful it can be difficult to work out what to do with all that veg. Which is why we’ve put together a few ideas for using up your stores. If you've been really lucky with your crop and these ideas still don’t cut the mustard, then why not see if any of your neighbors have some veg to swap? Or pop down to the local market with a few baskets and see if you can offload your crop for cash!

Kalabasa / Pumpkin Pie
We all know how prolific the squash here ( Kalabasa) can be. Even your friends and neighbors can grow tired of it but here is a little tidbit. It makes great pumpkin pie.
Just peel and cut into 1 inch chunks and boil until done. Follow your favorite Pumpkin recipe and you will create a fun treat for everyone.

Baked Zucchini Risotto

Cut your Zucchini in half lengthways and criss-cross them with a sharp knife before roasting for 30 minutes in an oven set to 200C. Take them out, let them cool and chop them into smaller pieces before adding to a classically simple risotto recipe of Arborio rice, celery and onion with a little white wine. Finish with a little parmesan and with a favorite glass of sun tea.

Spicy Bean Hummus

Making homemade hummus is easier than you think and it often turns out better than what you buy in the stores , if you can find it. Chuck a can of pre-washed chickpeas into the food processor, pop in your sliced green beans or podded broad beans, some lemon juice, chilli flakes (to taste) and plenty of salt and pepper.
Pop the lid on and start the motor running before adding olive oil in a thin drizzle until you have the consistency you want. For more of a shop feel you can use tahini but it really does work without it too.

Apple Chutney

Chutney makes a great a great compliment to any table even if our apples here are not exactly the best. But if you can find a good deal on some slightly over ripe apples this is a great project..You’ll need a big pan with a heavy bottom, but the actual process is really simple. For about 1kg of apples you’ll want 250g of onions and 120g of sultanas, with 375g of sugar and 500ml vinegar. The spices you use can vary but coriander and paprika make a good start and you can’t go wrong with a bit of mixed spice. Chuck it all in the pan, slowly bring it to the boil and just give it a stir every once in a while. After about 2 hours it should be ready –if you can scrape a spoon across the bottom and the channel it leaves doesn’t fill with liquid straight away then you’re all set.


Do you have any recipe ideas to share? Any tales of magnificent vegetable growing? Get involved in the comments and join the conversation! 

Thursday, September 18, 2014

Step Guide of Hints and Tips to Growing Your Own Herbs




Herbs
Indoors to protect against pests or Not?


Herbs look good, taste good and do you good, so here at the Tagum Expat Gardening Club, because there is nothing better than cooking with home grown produce, we have put together a useful step by step guide full of useful hints and tips to growing your own.
Herbs are sun worshipers for the most part. As expatriates of the Mediterranean region, most flavorful herbs don't thrive in the un-Mediterranean environment and inadequate light our houses provide. Herbs don't tolerate north-facing windows, or any window that gets less than four hours of direct sunshine a day even  here in Mindanao.

Not every herb likes indoor life. Coriander (cilantro), garden cress, and dill are short-lived annuals that, when cut for harvest, do not regrow. You have to resow these herbs to produce a continuous crop. Three pots of each plant, each at a different stage (seeded, intermediate growth, and ready to cut), are usually enough. Forget trying to grow coriander, dill, or other spice herbs indoors for their seeds: They won't set enough to warrant the effort.

Parsley 
You can grow parsely in pots or you may prefer to bring in established plants from the garden at the end of the season. The older leaves will fall off, but the thick taproot will drive new growth from the centre. However, parsely grown indoors from seed never reaches the size and productivity of plants dug from the garden. That's digging outdoor plants in fall and bringing them inside may be advantageous. Keep the soil around the taproot intact, and be sure to use a pot that's deep enough to accommodate the root.
Providing light
Even if your indoors, herbs get their four hours of direct sunshine daily, installing supplementary lighting is a necessity but here is almost never required.

Acclimate plants gradually

Plants produce two kinds of leaves in response to strong or weak light and heat. High-light leaves are thick, strong, and narrow. Low-light leaves are thinner, more delicate, and broader than high-light leaves. But narrow high-light leaves are less efficient in converting light energy into food than low-light leaves. High-light leaves are accustomed to an abundance of light, so they don't have to be as efficient at food production. A plant that is adapted to abundant light often turns brown and drops leaves indoors. This is because it can't produce enough food to maintain itself. The plant tries to make food by shedding the inefficient leaves and producing efficient leaves higher up and closer to the light source. When you bring herbs indoors or provide too much shade protection, this leaf drop and increased leggy growth can happen within weeks, or even days. Some herbs cannot make the transition fast enough to survive. It is always best to just allow your herbs to thrive wherever they are in your garden without dramatic changes in environment.

Rosemary

This slow-growing evergreen doesn't have the chance to adjust to changes in light before the plant slowly starves itself. The leaves dry up, and the plant dies. This sudden death is by far the most common complaint about growing rosemary indoors. Here's what to do: Gradually adjust the plant to lower light. Place it in partial shade for two to three weeks, then in deeper shade for another two to three weeks before bringing it indoors. When plenty of new growth appears, the plant is ready to go into the house.

Soil, fertilizer and water

After light, proper soil is the next most important factor in producing healthy herbs. With few exceptions, herbs require excellent drainage. When roots are confined in a pot or planter, water and air cannot move easily. To improve drainage without sacrificing nutrients, add sharp sand or perlite to a good sterilized compost-based mix. Most herbs do well in soils of a pH of 6 to 7.
Many people incorrectly think that herbs grow better in poor soil. Flavors are stronger when culinary herbs grow outdoors in gardens. But in the confines of a pot, supplementary feedings with liquid fertilizer or organic fish emulsion are necessary. Feed herbs once a week when plants are actively growing, but not when dormant.

Watering is not a trivial matter with herbs. In general, water less often and more thoroughly, and only when the soil is actually dry. When the soil is dry to the touch, add water until it comes out the bottom of the pot. If the water doesn't come out, pots have a drainage problem. First, check that the holes aren't blocked; if not, you may have to re-pot with soil that has better drainage.
Growth in water

Unless light is plentiful, growth of most indoor herbs will slow or even stop . When growth slows, reduce harvests and hold back a little on the water. Reducing the indoor temperature to 60o - 65oF, if possible, also helps although this is not likely here in Mindanao.

French tarragon and chives in particular benefit from a cool period and rest period rather then expect continuous production.. You can put them in a refrigerator for a month or two; freezing temperatures are fine. When returned to room temperature and good light, they'll put out succulent new growth.
Pests and diseases

Herbs are susceptible to common pests, including whiteflies, spider mites, aphids, mealy bugs, scale insects, and thrips. Inspect herbs regularly. If your herbs are in portable containers, control pests by dipping the whole above ground part of the plant into a pail of insecticidal soap. Swish vigorously for a minute or two to wet all leaf surfaces (hold your hand over the pot to prevent soil loss). Dipping herbs once or twice a week for three to four weeks will clear up most problems.

Herbs to grow indoors

In recent years, many new varieties of herbs have been introduced, some of which do better indoors than the traditional varieties. Here are 10 herbs notable for their consistent, compact growth habit and strong flavour.
'
Grolau' chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
Strong flavour and thick, dark green leaves. Developed for forcing and can reach 8 to 12 inches tall. Seeds germinate in 10 to 14 days .
'
Fernleaf' dill (Anethum graveolens)
Dwarf form of dill only 18 inches tall. Ideal for dill weed indoors. Standard varieties grow too tall and bolt too soon. Easy from seeds, germinating in 7 to 14 days.
'English' mint (Mentha spicata)
Perhaps the best-behaved spearmint variety (not as invasive as others, and the leaves are broader and deeper green). Excellent for cooking and tea. Easy to propagate from cuttings.

'Spicy Globe' basil (Ocimum basilicum minimum)
Dense, compact form of basil, 8 to 10 inches tall. Good flavour. Grow from seed; germinates in 6 to 12 days.

Greek oregano (Origanum vulgare hirtum)
The true oregano for Mediterranean cooking, with excellent flavour and white flowers. Watch out for the impostor (called wild marjoram) with pink flowers and no flavour. Greek oregano grows well in pots, reaching 8 to 12 inches. Grows easily from seed.

Broadleaf thyme (Plectranthus amboinicus or Coleus amboinicus)
Also known as Spanish thyme and Cuban oregano, this plant has broad, fleshy leaves unlike those of ordinary thyme. Wonderful, spicy thyme-oregano flavour and useful in many of the same recipes as ordinary thyme. Never goes dormant. Grows from cuttings only, and reaches 10 to 12 inches tall.

Vietnamese coriander (Polygonum odoratum)

Not true coriander, but a good substitute. Regrows after cutting, unlike true coriander, which must be reseeded after harvest. Grows 4 to 8 inches tall. Propagate from cuttings.

'Blue Boy' rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
More compact and diminutive than regular rosemary, reaching only 24 inches. Flowers freely and has excellent flavour. Propagated by cuttings only.

Dwarf garden sage (Salvia officinalis 'Compacta')
Smaller leaves and more compact than regular sage, growing only 10 inches high. Same sage flavor. Propagated by cuttings only; seeds are unavailable.

Creeping savory (Satureja repandra or S. spicigera)
Flavor identical to that of winter savory, but easier and faster to grow indoors. Reaches only 2 to 4 inches in height, but fills the pot with a dense mat of foliage. Difficult to find seeds, but grows readily from cuttings


Tuesday, September 16, 2014

Prevent Bacterial and Fungal Problems On Outdoor Plants

Hydrogen Peroxide Treatment


To prevent bacterial and fungal problems on outdoor plants use hydrogen peroxide! Hydrogen peroxide will prevent the disease spores from adhering to the plant tissue. It causes no harm to plants or soil, however don't use on young transplants or direct seeded crops until they have become established. Warning: Always test on a small portion of plant tissue first to check for any negative reactions. Do not proceed if there is any damage to plant tissue. Do not substitute food grade H2O2 for the common H2O2. Spray plants with undiluted 3 percent hydrogen peroxide that you can buy most anywhere. Be sure to cover tops and bottoms of leaves. Do this once a week during dry weather and twice a week in wet weather. This works as a preventative. If you already have problems use this as a direct treatment.